Wednesday, 30 November 2011
Suit Up!
I'll keep this brief. Come to Hoi An, go to Mr Xe's (pronounced 'cee'), and expect to pay $75 - 110 USD per suit (after haggling), and $16 per shirt. I'm sure there are other decent places (I also tried A Dong Silk), but I'd recommend Xe thanks to his meticulous attention to detail and great pride in quality.
Trip Advisor link: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298082-d2275868-Reviews-Mr_Xe-Hoi_An_Quang_Nam_Province.html#REVIEWS
So we walked around a few recommended places before arriving at Mr Xe's. First impressions were of just another shop, but Mr Xe came out and, by means of welcoming, gave Craig a kick in the butt and followed it up with some humerus banter.
After spending some time deliberating I put in an order for a tux, Craig for one suit, and Dustin for two. The next day we returned to Mr Xe for our first fittings. My Tux looked ace, except there was a flaw on one shoulder. Mr Xe was extremely unhappy at the defect. Racing, he grabbed me by the hand, dragged me outside, threw me on the back of a scooter, and before I knew it we were at the factory. Mr Xe spent 5 minutes jabbering away with a couple of the workers pointing angrily at different points on my suit.
Three fittings later the final tux was/is amazing. Mr Xe was kind enough to include free shorts, and I 'accidentally' bought 6 tailored shirts...
In summary, Mr Xe is an absolute perfectionist. The measuring is conducted by two different people, and Mr Xe is very forthcoming with what alterations are required. I highly recommend.
Saturday, 26 November 2011
Summary of Nha Trang
ng. The reason for coming here is to get away to the islands, and that is just what we did.
The boy band, comprised of the staff already on the boat, was hilarious. The drum kit had been assembled from the pots they had cooked our lunch in, and the lead singer was our guide. Next for entertainment every country had to perform. As soon as they announced this I was busy on my phone googling how to do the Haka in anticipation. All of the countries did their bits brilliantly, from the shy Nordics to the confident Koreans. And finally NZ's turn. My hunches confirmed as our host shouts out "HAKA!" Oh dear. I am quite embarrassed that I stuffed this up so so badly. As Tom said, "They'll never know the difference". My efforts certainly violated something Tapu. The fact that this was also performed on top of the dining table makes it worse. Still, we managed to woo the crowds nicely. I might even share a video of said Haka, provided I get over the embarrassment.
head the conversations flowed.
Wednesday, 23 November 2011
Da Lat - silk chase, coffee, chess

Tuesday, 22 November 2011
Vietnamese wine
Really this is primarily a quick update to warn other travellers to avoid the wine. Both red and white lack any complexity but have this tri-flavour burst. The first taste is of burning. This passes quickly to leave you feeling safe, the calm before the storm. Next a weird scrumpy flavour starts and startles, then lastly you are left with the lingering after burn, reminiscent of being a 17 year old in Chaffers park (or whatever they call it nowadays) with a 1.5 litre bottle of Ruby Red. A warning should have been noted though. The bottles read 'contains wine made from various fruits'. I guess being unable to narrow this down to containing just grapes should be a pretty strong indicator of what was to come.
(To be fair on Vietnamese wines we were hitting $4 bottles. A fairer judgement should be made on the pricier wines which I shall brave at some future point.)
Banh xeo (crepe) in Da Lat
So, this is a food-post for banh xeo. Other aliases include Vietnamese savoury pancakes or Vietnamese egg crepes.
Guessed at recipe of the dinner:
This is all cooked very quickly. Plenty of movement is required to get everything cooked evenly.
Starting with a rice crepe on the bbq add the green sauce[0], smear out, add an egg and then cover thoroughly. Constantly move around and spread the mixture out to ensure an evenly cooked finish. Add chilli powder. Serve once crisp and cooked through. Include dipping sauces[1]. Done.
The end result is this tasty, crunchy, eggy crepe with a subtle kick of heat. Definitely a 'must have' when in Vietnam.
[0] Green sauce is (probably) finely cut spring onion, coriander, fish sauce(?), maybe something else to make it quite wet.
Turmeric, lemon, salt and lots of green pepper would work well too.
[1] Sauces include a dark tomato, and a slightly sweet chilli.
Sunday, 20 November 2011
Mui Ne and a Giant Buddha
Mui Ne, Scooters and Sand Dunes
Friday, 18 November 2011
Vietnam Day 3 – bus trip to the beaches of Mui Ne
Some bad judgement has been exercised today.
So, today was our bus out of Saigon and up to Mui Ne. We arrived at our local at 7am for a brekkie. We found the staff there awesome, and spent countless conversations being tutored Vietnamese by the waiter. “Sin” – Please. “Mong” – one. “Hi” – two. “Ba” – three. “Bo” – four. “Sin ciao” – hello. “Come on” – thank you. Note: all of the above are misspelt. And probably misquoted.
The 200km journey north took about 5.5 hours, but fortunately we were in a ‘sleeper’ bus, where each seat reclines right back. Amazing. Well, I thought so. No one else seemed nearly as stoked as I was.
Fig 1. Anna and Tom on the Sleeper Bus
Cool journey. Slow travelling. Stopped at some place for lunch that had a few simple options. Random things from jars put on rice or bread. I saw three Vietnamese go for something that looked quite unappealing so I immediately requested ‘same same’. Turns out those Vietnamese really knew where it was at. Delicious sticky rice with 6 or so toppings, none of which I could decipher, but all worked well together. At a guess I think there were a couple of pork toppings and maybe shredded anchovy, all smothered with a couple of sauces that really gave the rice a sweet bite.
Fig 2. Same Same
The town we’re in is touristy but not too pricey. $25 USD for the 5 of us to stay each night, which is roughly half what the Lonely Planet warned. There’s a beach here that runs for miles and is lined with kite surfing shops and restaurants a plenty. Beer’s 40% more expensive here, meaning the Saigon Green’s are now setting us back about $1.20 NZD each. Outrage. Anyway. We all ended up going for a swim. Due to a bit of neglect on my part (primarily realizing I had my iPhone on me) I ended up stashing my money (&phone) pouch in my towel on the beach. The poorness of my judgement was brought home by the four locals who were blatantly staring/gaping at me while I did this, either with malicious intent, or just in shock at how blaze I could be about valuables in a high-theft area. I decided that abandoning the valuables at the hotel instead was a wise alternative and warranted a detour.
Food was eaten. None of it noteworthy. We all ended up at the hotel playing cards in Dustin’s/Craig’s/my room, first Tuppin then P&A’s. For hours.
Fig 3. Craig's Shuffling
Unfortunately (and this is where the poor judgement came in to play) Craig purchased a bottle of wine containing a scorpion hanging out of a cobra’s mouth.
Fig 4. Bad Judgement
Procrastinating, we eventually opened up the bottle. The stench was awful, the amber colour of the liquid reminding one of kidney-disease. The scent, no, the stench slowly wafted to fill the whole room with a constant reminder of distilled unhappiness. Well, eventually, in between hands, we began the dreaded countdown and all had a sip. This is undoubtedly the most awful substance of any kind, food or liquid, I have ever consumed in my life. Without a doubt. The unhappiness spreads as we each choke back the rancid flavour. “Putrid flesh” I believe was Dustin’s call, true to the t. In some heroic fashion Dustin and Tom, giving much credit to their manliness, decided to finish their shot – promptly causing a violent reaction in Dustin. It doesn’t end well. Dustin’s colouring resembles a chameleon, indecisive as to whether red or green are the way forward. Tom handles it pretty well, but still was pretty unhappy. A few hours have since passed since my sip and the taste still lingers, fortunately weaker now. All in all, a tacky, touristy experience that exists just for the sake of it. Awful, irrefutable. But at least we can say we’ve sampled that. Our only concern now is hoping we don’t end up with food-poisoning. We’re counting down, about 6 more hours until we find out.
Thursday, 17 November 2011
Saigon, Day 1
tly listening to a Vietnamese rock band performing more English and American covers than I can possibly recall; currently jamming out to a Zombie by the Cranberries.
The Cu Chi Tunnels
Our day started with a bus ride scheduled at Tom & Anna's hotel at 7:35. By 8:30, after being driven around for a while picking up other tourists, we noted that we were nearly back where we started the day. Oh well, sleeping in is overrated anyway.
After another couple of hours in busy, bumpy roads on a bus lacking suspension we arrived at Cu Chi.
The museum has a good variety of war time things on show. There are a number of traps on display which the Viet Cong dug and hid throughout the jungle that were effective. The traps were elaborate and gruesome, varying in style but all with a similar theme: gravity and something sharp. There were holes dug out from which one could be completely hidden and emerge silently when needing to (much like in the Vietnam war movies) The hiding holes were tiny and very hard to spot. There were cooking facilities that had chimneys directing smoke a long way away, great for misleading the Americans as to the kitchen's/settlement's exact whereabouts. The tunnels were complex, winding and small. Due to the sheer quantity of tourists this area has seen the tunnels have increased to about 40% larger than back in the 70s. They are however tiny, humid, warm and dark.
After we were shown a number of sights, demonstrations and offered the chance to shoot some guns (we declined), we found ourselves at the main attraction, the tunnels.
Anna refused outright to enter. Tom, Dustin, Craig and myself ventured further. Tom made it down the first few meters before muttering 'I can't do it' and balked. We last three ploughed on. It wasn't long before we were on our hands and knees due to the lack of room. Along, down, along, around, down, along. There were some lights illuminating the way but a number were out, leaving sections of the tunnel in complete darkness. I'd say we spent about 5+ minutes underground and the tunnel was certainly enjoyable in short doses. It would undoubtedly have been a dark, smoky, twisting, fear-inducing pathway in to the depths of nightmares during war-time. Much nicer now.
Anyway, that done, back to Saigon. Slept on bus. We managed to get the same bunch of seats together for the return journey too which was ace. Dodgy donner kebab for lunch, 10.000 dong beer to accompany, and now we (Craig, Dustin and I) have booked in to Anna and Tom's hotel for the night.
Tomorrow we're all departing Saigon and moving on to Mui Ne.
Sunday, 13 November 2011
It Begins at Five
So this is the start of my escape to The Orient, hitting Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. For company(/amusement) I am travelling with Craig, Morgan, Dustin, Mots, Tom, and Tom's girlfriend. (I sincerely hope Tom's girlfriend does not read this post revealing I have forgotten her name, and that I couldn't be bothered to switch tabs to Facebook to subtly rectify this gap in my memory). Most of us are old school chums from Wellington College and I imagine we shall spend most of our time exploring the local sights and so on.
Great pains have been taken to ensure this trip goes smoothly, the fruit of vibrant discussion and deliberation...ok, that was a lie. The first 48 hours are sorted at least. Craig has booked an extravagantly flash hotel in Ho Chi Minh city to get us started ($10 per night I'll never see again) and - I am loath to put this in print as this will probably void my excuses for forgetting - I have been charged with sorting a loose plan for the first few days and then suggest the next destination. Suggestions welcome, readers.
Anyway, bidding a fond farewell to Wellington and all of her beloved inhabitants, it's been a blast as always. 'Til next time, adieu.























