The feeling of grey dreariness fades as the miles from London increase, and it is not long before my mother and I are taking our first steps back in our beloved Italy, eagerly awaiting the arrival of Davo; a partial family trip together abroad, and a long overdue reunion.
Incredibly there is a pirate ship docked here - built in 1985 for a movie, Pirates (1986) - which invokes a bizarre nostalgic charm; after all, I am a child of Hook (1991) and Pirates of the Caribbean (the OG Disney Ride, more so than the legendary film franchise that should have stopped at one)...a nostalgic charm which has obsessed me to create a video game based on piracy set in the Caribbean... But, I digress, there's obviously real places here steeped in centuries of culture that must be explored.
What to do
A meander along the Via Garibaldi is memorable. This street contains a number of significant buildings, some public, some presumably private. I would encourage you to walk into each that you can just to observe any courtyards, chandeliers, or art pieces which are visible in their lobbies.
Seeking out the numerous cathedrals is definitely worth while, as they are all absolutely stunning, inside and out.
Ultimately just walking the old town and just soaking in the atmosphere is incredibly special.
Getting there
There are plenty of fairly-priced flights from major airports going this way, and at tolerable times too. I checked Barcelona and London, and all seemed nice and easy. In a pinch you could fly to Milan and then catch public transport down, but this definitely involves effort.
Getting around
Taxis are a fixed 25€ between the airport and the city.
There is also an airport bus. 6€, tickets purchased beforehand or on board (card accepted)
Finally there is possibly also a public bus or train, but I did not explore these options.
Where to stay
In the old town has a cool vibe. There is a main highway that runs along next to the port which is incredibly noisy, so be mindful of this with any accommodation close to the water. I would recommend staying in the heart of the old town.
North west corner of the old town starts to get a bit dodgy though, and I did not feel safe down these alleyways by myself.
Where to drink
Cantine di Colombo
This was my favourite here. We enjoyed numerous wines here. The staff are all excellent value, capable of suggesting delicious and exciting bottles. While their local wine was a treat, we also enjoyed a phenomenal bottle from grapes grown at the base of a volcano in Sicily; I’m always a sucker for an origin story more cultured than myself. The relaxed and friendly vibe from the staff was a highlight, as well as the snacks available.
On our last day in Italy, 9 days later, my mother and I returned here. “Oh I recognise you!” beams the waitress, and our final bill was very kindly discounted.
Enoclub
A more traditional feeling wine bar experience, with delicious wines, ample knowledge, and a formidable meat+cheese board, which included lard. Memorable for all the right reasons.
Where to eat lunch
Il Panino Italiano
A hustling lunch spot. Food is inexpensive sandwiches, served swiftly by locals for locals. The ingredients are stunning cheeses and brilliantly cured meats (think procutto in a pistachio crumb). There was no English menu available (kudos!) which meant I went for some of the few ingredients I could recognise (think truffle mushroom cheese). This is a brief but sattisfying lunch experience, no longer than 20 minutes all up.
Ten out of ten. I’ll eat there again. I already miss this place.
Where to eat dinner
My evenings were hampered with what felt like a surprise Italian monsoon. I was forced to eat hurriedly and near my digs, and sadly no dinner was outstanding. If you have recommendations I would love to hear them.
Where to drink coffee
Firstly, my advice to flat white drinkers (as at 2023) is do not try and get a flat white anywhere. I settled into caffè macchiatos (perhaps that is macchiati?) very happily.
88 Bar
Out of the way, and aesthetically shocking, but my favourite coffee came from here.
Caffetteria San Giorgio Luccoli
Ambience is superb, and the location rocks. This is a perfect place to relax and recover your strength before continuing on your journey.
Tazze Pazze Specialty Coffee
Seems cool, but I only had a butchered flat white from there so I'm not really sure whether or not to recommend going. I'll try something else on their menu next year.
